Buy the cheap one first.
A six-pound tube you use up teaches you more than a thirty-pound tube you are frightened of. Nearly everything a beginner gets sold is too good for them, and it is the shop that sold it that should have said so. People walk out of here having spent less than they came in planning to, most days.
You will waste the first tube — Everybody does, and it is the most useful tube you will ever buy. Waste it on a cheap one
The expensive one has a hidden cost — You ration it. Rationing is the enemy of practice, and a tube nobody dares open has cost far more than its price
Spend it on paper instead — Bad paper ruins good paint and good paper flatters bad paint. If there is money for one upgrade, it is never the paint
Upgrade when you can say why — "It doesn't lift the way I want" is a reason. "It's a bit rubbish" isn't, and a dearer tube won't fix it
The one thing worth paying for now — A single decent brush. It changes what your hand can do on the first day, which is more than any paint will
Colour lists run long — Five tubes mix most of a twelve-tube list. Buying the twelve teaches you less, because mixing is the lesson
Sizes on a list are a guess — Written by somebody who doesn't know how heavily you paint. Start small on colour, generous on white — white always goes first
Don't buy the set — A boxed set is priced on the colours nobody uses. The four you'd actually pick cost less bought loose
A brand name on a list — Usually means it's what the tutor uses, not that anything else fails. Ask before you assume it's a requirement
Say if money is tight — It changes the advice completely and nobody thinks anything of it. There is a cheaper way through almost every list on the wall
The pigment code — PB29, PY35, PR108. The only part of a label that means the same thing in every brand, and the only part worth memorising
Series 1 to 5 — A price band, not a quality band. Series 5 costs more because that pigment costs more, and a series 1 next to it can be the better paint
Lightfastness I, II, III — How long it survives daylight. III fades, and a brand that prints III on the tube is being straight with you
One code or three — A single-pigment tube mixes clean. A three-pigment tube mixes towards mud, which is why your greens keep going grey
The colour name means nothing — Two brands' "sap green" are different pigments entirely. Match the code, never the name, when you are replacing something
Framing — Not done here. There is a framer round the corner who is better at it than we would be, and no commission changes hands either way
Hobby and craft ranges — A different shop and a genuinely good one. Sending you there is quicker than pretending we have something close
Airbrush and spray — No, and no plans to. It needs extraction we don't have and advice we can't give
Solvents, and the honest bit — Stocked. An open window is not ventilation, and "odourless" means you can't smell it rather than that it isn't there. Ask what the safer route is — for most people there is one
Anything we can order — Two days, no deposit, and no obligation to take it if you change your mind while it's on its way
Student oils, 38 ml
$6The tube to start on. Six of these will do everything a first year needs, and you'll have used two of them up by Christmas.
Ask about this oneCotton paper block, 300 gsm
$18The upgrade that actually shows. Glued on all four edges so it stays flat when it's wet, which is the whole problem with cheap pads.
Ask about this oneOne good brush
$12A single round, size eight, that keeps its point. It will outlast three sets and it changes what your hand can do on the first day.
Ask about this oneAsk before you buy anything
Live preview — every color, word and block is editable after you pick it.
